In the heart of Romagna, the city of Forlì preserves an exceptional cultural and artistic heritage that stems from its 22 centuries of history. In this guide, we will delve into the fascinating monuments and attractions that these centuries have left to us.
Where is Forlì
Forlì is a city in the Emilia Romagna region, in the Po Valley of northern Italy. The city is located about 17 miles from the Adriatic Riviera.
History of Forlì
A city of art with eclectic architecture, Forlì’s historic center boasts numerous attractions and monuments from various epochs of its long history. Forlì is also the city of Catherine Sforza, lady of Imola and countess of Forlì, who underwent a trial for witchcraft due to her passion for alchemy.
Antiquity
The current territory of Forlì was inhabited since the Paleolithic era, as evidenced by findings from Monte Poggiolo, including numerous artifacts from 800,000 years ago. The Etruscans called this settlement Figline, which means “land of the potters.” In fact, this settlement produced ceramics, which became particularly widespread and famous in the 14th and 16th centuries.
Forlì owes its foundation to the Romans, who named the settlement Forum Livii. It was founded in 188 BC. In fact, by 2012, the city has reached 22 centuries of history. The Roman settlement has few and mostly underground remnants. Forlì originated from the Etruscan Ficline, which was composed of the forum Livii and the castrum Livia.
The Middle Ages
After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, Forlì became part of the Ostrogothic kingdom and then the Byzantine Empire. It remained Byzantine until the 6th century, then fell under the domination of the Church. The city became a republic several times. In the first half of the 13th century, Forlì sided with Federico II’s Ghibellines. For that reason, the Emperor granted the city broad autonomy.
Internal struggles among local lords caused significant trouble during the transition from a free commune to a lordship. Finally, the Ordelaffi family emerged victorious, ruling from the end of the 13th to the beginning of the 16th century. But, by the mid-14th century, Forlì and all of Romagna came back under the power of the Papal States.
Modern Age
During the Renaissance, Forlì became the city of Catherine Sforza. She was the grandmother of Cosimo I de’ Medici, who would be the first Grand Duke of Tuscany. Because of her valiant defense of the city of Forlì from the castle of Ravaldino, Catherine will always be remembered. However, Cesare Borgia, seeking to reassert the Pope’s dominion over Romagna, defeated her.
Papal governance guaranteed a period of tranquility. In 1630, the city escaped the plague that was devastating the rest of Italy. In modern times, however, the political situation in Forlì remained substantially unchanged until the Unification of Italy.
What to see in Forlì
Forlì is a perfect place for a short vacation. The city offers culture, art, leisure activities, and a wonderful enogastronomic tradition. Architecturally, the city combines multiple styles, from Romanesque in the medieval era to Renaissance, through Neoclassical, and a touch of rationalism. Here’s now what to see in Forlì.
San Mercuriale Abbey
Located in the historic center, the Abbey of San Mercuriale is the symbol of Forlì. This place of worship dates back to 1178 and is named after the city’s first bishop. The Abbey displays a Romanesque style, with a Lombard-style bell tower 230 feet tall. A precious bas-relief from the early 13th century adorns the lunette of the portal on the facade, potentially representing one of the first sculpted Nativity scenes.
The interior is simple and austere. However, there are fascinating works of art, such as the ancient frescoed lunettes, the oval of San Mercuriale, the frescoes of the chapels, and altarpieces. The funeral monument of Barbara Manfredi, daughter of the lord of Faenza, dates back to the second half of the 15th century.
The bell tower has a typical red color of Forlì and displays a conical spire at the top. The Bell Tower of San Mercuriale served as a model for many subsequent works, like the famous Bell Tower of St. Mark’s in Venice.
Santa Croce Cathedral
The Cathedral of Santa Croce is the cathedral of Forlì and is located in Ordelaffi Square. The building presents a Neoclassical style resulting from restoration works. The restoration occurred following the partial demolition of the previous Romanesque-Gothic church.. Of the original place of worship, only some rooms remain.
The main attraction of the Cathedral of Forlì is the chapel-shrine of the Madonna del Fuoco. The room dates back to the mid-17th century and features rich decoration and niches with elegant statues. Furthermore, inside is the woodcut of the Madonna del Fuoco, one of the oldest still existing. The wooden and paper tablet survived the fire that struck the school where it was located on the night of Wednesday, February 4, 1428. Also noteworthy is the cathedral’s crucifix, one of the best of its kind in Italy, dating back to the 12th century.
Other churches
The Church of Suffrage overlooks Saffi Square. The construction of the building began in 1723 and ended only in the 1930s. This church’s structure is similar to that of Santa Maria al Quirinale in Rome, which was created by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, the famed architect. The interior features columns supporting the beautiful late 18th-century dome, decorated with frescoes.
On Mazzini Street, we find the ancient Church of Carmine, dating back to the end of the 15th century. The facade displays a beautiful portal in Istrian stone from the 15th century. Originally, it belonged to the main door of the cathedral. The interior retains the valuable walnut choir, whose lower part is from the 15th century. The marvelous wooden structure houses an organ from the mid-18th century.
The Basilica of San Pellegrino Laziosi, or Church of Santa Maria dei Servi, is located in the ancient district of Campostrino. In particular, the building is worth visiting for its 14th-century wooden choir, the only example of Gothic style in Romagna and perhaps the oldest in the entire region. Another attraction is the chapel with the tomb of San Pellegrino Laziosi. The environment displays rich and refined decoration.
Historic palaces
The town hall dates back to the year 1000 in its oldest part, when it developed around the ancient tower. In 1412, it became the residence of the Ordelaffi family. The building is the seat of the municipality, and its appearance results from works carried out in the 19th century. Inside are richly frescoed rooms and trompe-l’oeil. The Tower and Palazzo Numai (via Pedriali 12) belonged to the ancient and powerful Ghibelline family, from which the building takes its name. The Numai is the only survivor of the defensive towers of Forlì.
Among what to see in Forlì, there’s the Podestà’s Palace in Aurelio Saffi Square. The building dates back to the second half of the 15th century. It features a facade with references to the Gothic style, while the pointed arches are typical of public buildings in the communal age. Palazzo Albertini (Saffi Square, 49) is an elegant 15th-century building showing a clear Venetian influence in style. In particular, the facade features Corinthian order pilasters, Istrian stone biforas, and a loggia embellished with rich decorations.
Also in Piazza Aurelio Saffi is the striking Palazzo delle Poste. Constructed in 1930, the building boasts an imposing fascist-monumental style. Palazzo Paulucci occupies the entire side of Piazza Ordelaffi. It belonged to two powerful noble families of Forlì: the Piazza and the Paulucci de’ Calboli. Its construction began in 1673, inspired by the Lateran and Farnese palaces in Rome.
Rocca di Ravaldino
The Rocca di Ravaldino, also known as the “Rocca di Catherine Sforza,” is a typical medieval fortified citadel. In 1496, Catherine Sforza had a residential palace built there, called “The Heaven” for its luxury.
On one side of the Rocca, the Borgia family’s coat of arms remains visible. Cesare Borgia’s forces caused the gap that allowed them to enter in 1500, where the coat of arms is situated. This act ended Catherine Sforza’s strenuous defense of the city. It’s possible to visit, free of charge, only the external garden. The interior hosts exhibitions and cultural events.
Squares
Aurelio Saffi Square is certainly a must-see among what to see in Forlì. It is the heart of the historic center, and it is the convergence point of the four main streets. Originally the site of the Roman Forum and the center of the medieval city, it now houses the statue of Aurelio Saffi and some of the city’s most renowned buildings. The square is among the largest in Italy.
The evocative Via delle Torri connects Piazza Saffi with Ordelaffi square and Duomo square. The Cathedral of Santa Croce and the imposing Palazzo Paulucci dominate these two squares. In the center of Piazza del Duomo is the votive column of the Madonna del Fuoco, protector of the city.
Civic Tower
The Civic Tower, towering over the entire historic center, is one of the city’s symbols. Also known as the Public Clock Tower, it stands 236 feet tall. Built on the remains of a previous Roman-era tower, the building stands behind the Town Hall. In 1944, the Germans almost completely destroyed it.
Forlì’s museums
Among the attractions in Forlì, its numerous and fascinating museums are a must-see.
San Domenico Museums and Civic Art Gallery of Forlì
A 13th-century Dominican convent houses the San Domenico Museums, a complex of museums. They include five buildings: the Pasquali Palace, the Church of Saint James Apostle, the Dominican convent, the Augustinian convent, and the Santa Catherine Hall. Inside is also the Civic Art Gallery of Forlì. Set up in twenty rooms, the Civic Art Gallery preserves important works of art such as works by Beato Angelico and the famous “Ebe” by sculptor Antonio Canova.
Other museums
Among what to see in Forlì, there’s the Civic Museum of Palazzo Romagnoli. It displays the civic collections of the 20th century. These include the precious Verzocchi Collection, which focuses on the theme of work, oils and engravings by Giorgio Morandi, and sculptures by Adolfo Wildt. The Casa Museo Villa Saffi was the residence of Aurelio Saffi, a historical figure and close friend of the famous patriot and politician Giuseppe Mazzini. The building preserves period furnishings, books, and memorabilia of Mazzini, who often stayed in the residence.
The Merenda Palace or the Ancient Hospital is located in Corso della Repubblica and houses the Civic Art Gallery “Melozzo degli Ambrogi,” the Ethnographic Museum “Benedetto Pergoli,” and the “Albicini” Armory. Palazzo Gaddi is a sumptuous baroque residence in Corso Garibaldi and hosts the Museum of the Risorgimento and the Romagnolo Theater Museum. Finally, the Dante Foschi Historical Museum displays a collection of memorabilia from the First World War, the war in Ethiopia, the ’40–’45 period, and works by the painter Maceo Casadei.
Attractions around Forlì
Casentinesi Forests National Park
About 31 miles south of Forlì extends the Casentine Forests National Park. It occupies an area along the border between the Emilia Romagna and Tuscany regions. Its beech forests are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The area is perfect for nature excursions thanks to numerous paths, MTB itineraries, and high-accessibility trails.
The main attractions within the park are the Acquacheta Waterfalls and the Ridracoli Dam. But there are also historic villages such as Pietrapazza, Camaldoli, and the Sacred Hermitage.
Curiosities and anecdotes about Forlì
Here are some curious facts and anecdotes about this fascinating city.
- Ancient foundation. Forlì boasts very ancient origins. The city’s name reflects that of its founder, Gaius Livius Salinator, son of the consul Marcus Livius Salinator. In 207 BC, he defeated the Carthaginian army led by Hasdrubal in the Battle of Metaurus.
- Melozzo degli Ambrogi. Forlì is the birthplace of Melozzo da Forlì, a Renaissance painter known for his innovative techniques of perspective and use of light. His works significantly contributed to the development of Renaissance art. The Civic Art Gallery of Florence showcases some of his works.
- Connection with Mussolini. Forlì has a strong historical connection with Benito Mussolini, the Italian fascist dictator. Mussolini lived in Forlì during his youth and began his political career here. In fact, during the fascist regime, the city received particular attention, such as the construction of many public buildings.
Typical cuisine in Forlì
The cuisine of Forlì, like in many parts of Emilia-Romagna, is renowned for its richness and variety. The gastronomy of the territory derives from peasant tradition.
Typical dishes include piadina, a very thin bread filled with cured meats, cheeses, and vegetables. Among the first courses, the famous cappelletti stands out. Cooked in either chicken or capon broth, they are a type of egg pasta filled with meat.
Here, you will discover some top restaurants in Forlì.
Craftsmanship in Forlì
The city is renowned for its production of artistic ceramics and majolica objects. This is a very ancient tradition, likely dating back to the end of the 14th century. However, in the Civic Art Gallery, there are photos of majolica made in Forlì that can be dated back to the 15th century. Strolling through the streets of Forlì’s historic center, you can come across ceramic shops perfect for shopping.
What to See in Forlì Gallery
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Tourist information offices Forlì
Municipality Gallery, Piazza Saffi, 8
Open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and from 2 p.m. to 7 p.m. Contacts: 0543 712362, iat@comune.forli.fc.it
