Anagni, also known as the “City of Popes,” is a hidden gem nestled in the heart of Ciociaria in Lazio. This ancient city, rich in history, art, and culture, offers a unique experience for visitors looking to explore beyond the usual Italian tourist routes. In this article, we’ll reveal what to see in Anagni, from its charming historic center to its surrounding attractions. And let’s not forget the local cuisine, which promises to delight your palate.
Where is Anagni?
Anagni is in a privileged location, perched on the hills of Ciociaria, about 37 miles southeast of Rome. The municipal territory entirely occupies the Sacco Valley, from the Ernici Mountains, where it reaches its highest peak with Porciano Mount, to the slopes of the Lepini Mountains.
Its geographical position offers a spectacular view of the Sacco Valley, making it an ideal panoramic point. The town is easily accessible via the A1 Motorway. Anagni is, therefore, the perfect destination for a trip from Rome or as a stop on a broader itinerary to discover Lazio.
History of Anagni
The history of Anagni dates back to ancient times, with traces going back to the pre-Roman period. The city reached its peak during the Middle Ages, when it became an important political and religious center, earning the nickname “City of Popes.” Four pontiffs were born in Anagni.
The city was the scene of significant historical events, such as the “Anagni slap,” an incident involving Pope Boniface VIII in the conflict with the King of France, Philip the Fair.
The medieval period
Events that reflect the complex dynamics of the Middle Ages in Italy permeate Anagni’s history. During these centuries, Anagni was a nerve center of power, culture, and spirituality. Founded in the pre-Roman era by the Volsci, an ancient Italian people, Anagni soon came under Rome’s sphere of influence but retained its distinct identity. With the advent of Christianity, the city gained importance as a bishopric, beginning to weave its first ties with the Church that would define its role in the centuries to come.
During the Middle Ages, Anagni reached the height of its influence. It became one of the most important centers for the Catholic Church. The city was the birthplace of four Popes: Innocent III, Alexander IV, Gregory IX, and Boniface VIII. All these figures left an indelible mark on the ecclesiastical and political history of the time. The presence of these pontiffs transformed Anagni into a place of immense significance for the political and spiritual decisions of the Christian world.
The Anagni Slap
One of the most famous episodes in Anagni‘s history is the “Anagni Slap,” which occurred in 1303. This event saw Pope Boniface VIII humiliated and physically assaulted by mercenaries in the service of Philip the Fair, King of France, and Sciarra Colonna, a member of a Roman family hostile to the Pope. The slap symbolized the conflict between the temporal power of kings and the spiritual power of popes, highlighting Anagni‘s fragile position in the power struggles in Europe.
After the return of the popes to Rome, the town suffered a significant decline. The church appointed dukes to govern it during this period. Despite the historical ups and downs, Anagni has preserved a rich cultural and artistic heritage, evidenced by its churches, palaces, and the artworks that adorn the city.
What to See in Anagni
The historic center of Anagni consists of cobblestone streets, medieval squares, and historic buildings. Its architecture reflects the historical and cultural wealth accumulated over the centuries. The Cathedral of Saint Mary, an 11th-century masterpiece of Romanesque art, stands as one of the most representative symbols. This magnificent cathedral houses invaluable artistic treasures inside.
Adjacent to the cathedral stands the Papal Palace, the summer residence of the popes and the center of medieval ecclesiastical power. Its halls, richly decorated with medieval frescoes, narrate the historical and religious events that have marked the city and the Church. Walking through the historic center means immersing yourself in an atmosphere of other times, where the past and present blend into a unique experience. Here is a detailed list of what you should see in Anagni.
The Cathedral of Saint Mary
The beating heart of Anagni is its magnificent cathedral dedicated to Saint Mary. Built in the 11th century, the cathedral is an extraordinary example of Romanesque architecture, with an interior that houses invaluable medieval frescoes. This article provides an in-depth guide on the Cathedral of Anagni.
The Other Churches of Anagni
Of the Church of Saint Andrew (Sant’Andrea Square) only a few remains of the medieval period have survived. In the 18th century, it underwent renovations and transformation. Today, we have the 13th-century bell tower intact, in which Romanesque fragments with zoomorphic figures are visible. Inside, the 14th-century triptych of the Savior is preserved, with Christ placed between the Madonna and the virgin saint Secondina of Anagni. Beneath the presbytery is the ancient chapel known as the crypt of San Vito, which is also accessible from the inside. The external portal of the crypt is notable for its pointed arch.
The Conventual Franciscans, who resided in the adjacent convent, have held the Church of Sant’Angelo (Vicolo Sant’Angelo, 3) since 1574, dating back to the Middle Ages. The second half of the 18th century saw the reconstruction of the Church of Saint Pancrazio, situated in the medieval Tufoli district (via San Pancrazio). Inside, it houses valuable paintings and statues from the 17th and 18th centuries.
The Papal Palace
The Papal Palace (Vittorio Emanuele Street, 238), the historical seat of the temporal power of the popes in Anagni, is a must-see among the attractions in Anagni. This impressive medieval building offers a dive into ecclesiastical history and the political events of the time, with frescoed halls that narrate stories of power, faith, and art.
People incorrectly refer to the palace as “of Boniface VIII.” In reality, it is the Palace of Gregory IX, which the Caetani later inherited. The Mother House of the Cistercian Sisters of Charity now incorporates this heavily restored building from the 20th century, along with the House of De Mattia (descendants of Gregory IX), the residence of Boniface VIII’s nephew, Pietro II Caetani.
The Palace of Reason and Casa Barnekow
Among what to see in Anagni is also the Palace of Reason (Vittorio Emanuele Street, 187). It is the town hall of Anagni and dates back to 1163. The Brescian architect Jacopo da Iseo built the palace. An imposing portico connects two pre-existing buildings to form the palace. On this latter rests the large “Hall of Reason.” On the north facade, there are the “loggetta of the Crier” and the coats of arms of the city, along with those of the Orsini family and the Caetani family (the family of Boniface VIII).
Casa Barnekow (Vittorio Emanuele Street, 83) is a medieval dwelling that owes its name to the Swedish family that restored it in the 19th century. Located in the heart of the historic center, this house is famous for its painted coffered ceilings and decorations. It offers a unique glimpse into the domestic life of the era.
The medieval streets
The atmosphere of Anagni’s historic center seems suspended in time as one walks through its narrow streets. Among these, Vittorio Emanuele Street offers picturesque views and leads to enchanting squares where time seems to have stopped. Now, let’s continue to discover what to see in Anagni.
The Walls and Gates of Anagni
The walls surround the historic center of Anagni and delimit what is called the Circumvallation Road that winds around the town. As with all fortified centers, Anagni‘s walls were built for defensive purposes. These ancient buildings are part of Lazio’s megalithic architectural heritage. Inside, tombs dating back to the middle of the 4th century BC have been found. The walls, especially on the side of the Parco della Rimembranza, form terraces. During the pontificate of Pope Pius IV, the city walls underwent restoration work, and along them there are still inscriptions that celebrate the Pope himself.
The walls had openings in the gates that are currently present in Anagni: Cerere Gate, Santa Maria Gate, and San Francesco Gate. San Nicola Gate and Tufoli Gate are no longer visible except for a few remains. Cerere Gate is located at the western entrance of Anagni, and its name derives from the homonymous Latin deity. The gate fell into ruin during the Napoleonic period until a new one was built in neoclassical style in 1814. Santa Maria Gate represents the eastern entrance to the city. Formerly called “the Idols Gate”, it was the gateway to the acropolis. The current construction dates back to 1564, during the pontificate of Pius IV. On this stretch of the acropolis, the walls are well preserved.
St. Francis Gate
It represents the southern entrance to the city. Its appearance dates back to 1564, when Pope Pius IV wanted to rebuild it. The papal coat of arms is located on the external front. On the side, there are some bas-reliefs, one of which features the image of Saint Francis. It testifies to the presence nearby of a church and Franciscan convent that arose in the Middle Ages.
Museums of Anagni
Facebook Page Anagni Cathedral Museum
MAE—Archaeological Museum of the Hernici (Guglielmo Marconi Square) is a museum on the history of the Anagni area. The exhibition itinerary includes three floors. It describes prehistory, the Roman era, and the Middle Ages in this region. On the first floor of the MAE, there is a section on the oldest history of man, about two million years ago. In addition to archaeological finds from the territory around Anagni, video projections and life-sized animal reconstructions depict the ancient natural landscapes.
At the Museum of the Palace of Boniface VIII, one can visit the room of the famous “slap.” It is also possible to visit the house-museum of the sculptor Gismondi and Casa Barnekow, a picturesque 13th-century dwelling with a facade entirely frescoed, which hosted Dante Alighieri during his stay in Anagni.
Attractions Around Anagni
In the surroundings of Anagni, the landscape gives way to hills covered in vineyards and olive groves, a testament to the town’s deep connection with its agricultural territory.
Villa Magna
Villa Magna (Starada Comunale Stazione di Sgurgola) is a large Roman villa located in the territory of the municipality of Anagni, at the foot of Mount Giuliano. The name comes from the presence of a large imperial villa (2nd–5th century), occupied by the monastery of Saint Peter a Villamagna between the 9th and 13th centuries. The villa probably dates back to the time of Emperor Hadrian.
The remains of the Roman villa extend over about 17 hectares. Archaeological excavations have revealed that the villa also consisted of cellars with rooms richly decorated in marble. This has led to the hypothesis that the cellars also served for the imperial celebrations of the Vinalia festival.
The archaeological area of Casal del Dolce
The archaeological area of Casal del Dolce (Via Giovanni Giminiani, 173,) consists of a necropolis and a settlement dating back to the Neolithic period (6th millennium BC). It is near the city of Anagni. Its discovery dates back to the excavation works to build the high-speed railway.
The archaeological area currently contains several tombs, the remains of residential structures likely used for ceramic production, various artifacts, and human and animal remains.
The Abbey of Holy Mary of Glory
The Holy Mary of Glory Abbey (Via Cavone della Badia, 22A) is a monastery dating back to the 13th century located in the municipality of Anagni. Currently, the monastery is abandoned. There are restoration projects that should give new life to the monastic complex. In the 13th century, the abbey was among the main residences of the Florense Order.
Curiosities and anecdotes about Anagni
- Anagni is the “City of Popes”; four pontiffs were born here.
- The “Anagni Slap” is one of the most famous episodes of Italian medieval history, symbolizing the conflict between papal and imperial power.
- The Cathedral of Anagni hides a labyrinth of crypts and underground passages, shrouded in mystery and legend.
Typical Cuisine of Anagni
Apart from the sights to be seen in Anagni, there are also traditional restaurants. The cuisine of Anagni is part of the culinary tradition of the Lazio region. In fact, it includes recipes that enhance the authentic flavors of the land. The dishes are of peasant origin. Among these, you can taste:
- Timballo Alla Bonifacio. This is a unique and exclusive dish from Anagni. In fact, it has been a trademark of the Ristorante del Gallo since 1600. This typical dish includes fettuccine seasoned with meat sauce, slices of raw ham, and finally meatballs.
- Gingerbread. This is the typical Christmas dessert. In fact, it includes dried fruit, chocolate, honey, a little flour, spices, and candied fruit.
- Pasta alla Ciociara. A robust and flavorful dish, enriched with guanciale and pecorino cheese.
- Abbacchio a scottadito. It’s a grilled lamb, tender and succulent.
Handicrafts and where to go shopping in Anagni
Among the most traditional, widespread, and renowned economic activities are the artisanal ones. Among these, the arts of embroidery, lace, and carving hold significant importance. The extraction and processing of travertine is equally important for the construction and artistic sectors. Lastly, the creation of stylish furniture is crucial.
Visit the following shops for quality shopping and local crafts.
- Tarsie Turri (Vittorio Emanuele Street, 291). For over half a century in Anagni, Tarsie Turri has been creating inlaid wood panels and paintings. Tarsie Turri crafts the works entirely by hand, employing 15th-century techniques and paying special attention to color research and three-dimensionality. They embody the essence of genuine Italian craftsmanship.
What to see in Anagni Gallery
Anagni video
Map Anagni
Anagni weather
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Tourist information offices in Anagni
Pro Loco Anagni APS in Piazza Innocenzo III, 25. Open every day from 10:30 to 13:00. Contacts: 0775 727852, prolocoanagni@gmail.com
