Garfagnana is a region of Tuscany that offers uncontaminated nature, castles, and historic villages. These are the attractions in Garfagnana, to which we must add traditions and a cuisine rich in typical dishes.
Garfagnana: Where is it?
Nestled between the Apuan Alps and the Apennines, Garfagnana is a historic region of northern Tuscany, in the province of Lucca. The mountainous territory shows small villages where time seems to have stopped and castles with an ancient history.
Crossed by the Serchio River, the Garfagnana Valley offers a great variety of natural landscapes. The barren crests of the Apuan Alps alternate with lush chestnut and beech forests. Small lakes peek out from the gentle hills of the lower altitudes. In this travel guide, we will discover all the attractions in Garfagnana.
History of Garfagnana
During the Iron Age, the Apuan Ligurians and the Etruscans inhabited Garfagnana. Its history is therefore very ancient.
Roman era
After the Apuan Ligurians and the Etruscans, the Romans colonized Garfagnana and, to consolidate their dominion, founded the colonies of Luni, on the Magra river, and Lucca, inland. Garfagnana and the Serchio valley were renamed Foro Clodi, although scholars are still debating the origin of this name. In fact, the term could also refer to Fivizzano, in the neighboring Lunigiana.
Some groups of Apuan Ligurians, for at least another century, controlled the most impervious mountains. This prevented the Romans from establishing a connection between Pisa and the important colony of Luni. In 56 BC, Emperor Julius Caesar managed to definitively subdue the Apuan Ligurians and open the road between Lucca and the city of Massa.
During the Roman-Barbarian Kingdoms
With the end of the Roman Empire, the Roman-Barbarian kingdoms also dominated Garfagnana. The Lombards established the seat of their power in the Aghinolfi fortress in Montignoso di Massa. From here they penetrated inland, subjugating Garfagnana. The kingdom of the Franks of Charlemagne succeeded that of the Lombards. The Duchy of Lucca incorporated Garfagnana into the March of Tuscia. The local feudal families divided the territory with the arrival of the Franks.
The medieval era
In 1325, Castruccio Castracani, the lord of Lucca, occupied the valleys of Garfagnana, although the local lords always contested his dominion. Castracani prevailed, and Garfagnana became part of the Republic of Lucca. Before the mid-1400s, the Este dukes of Modena and Ferrara took advantage of the ongoing war between Lucca and Florence to enter Garfagnana. Here they obtained the loyalty of many villages, such as Castelnuovo Garfagnana, Camporgiano, and Gallicano. Some centers remained loyal to Modena’s Este until the 1530s.
The Renaissance and Ariosto
The famous Italian poet Ludovico Ariosto administered Garfagnana from 1522 to 1525 as Ducal Commissioner of Alfonso I d’Este. He lived in Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, where he committed himself to fighting bandits and efficiently administering the land. Not all the municipalities, however, were loyal to the Este. Minucciano and Castiglione di Garfagnana remained with Lucca, while Gallicano, after a period of loyalty to the Este, returned to the Republic of Lucca. As a result, Garfagnana was divided between Lucca and the Este family until the nineteenth century.
Modern era
At the end of the 16th century, the Republic of Lucca tried to reconquer all of Garfagnana against Pisa and Florence. In 1598, the Este power passed from Ferrara to Modena, which also became the capital of Garfagnana. Lucca continued to have control of important towns and territories. Throughout the modern age, Garfagnana was part of the Duchy of Modena and Reggio. Only in 1861 did it pass into the province of Massa-Carrara, and since 1923 it has been part of that of Lucca.
Attractions in Garfagnana
Garfagnana is a territory where nature remains uncontaminated today. The woods supply the necessary ingredients for numerous traditional recipes. For example, chestnuts are used to prepare “necci” or “cian”, which are sweets made with chestnut flour. Along with spelt soup, mushrooms, and polenta, these delicacies are other attractions in Garfagnana.
Our itinerary starts from Lucca, a splendid city and capital of the province that includes Garfagnana. From the historic center of the city, we take the SS 12 road that introduces us to our tour of the attractions in Garfagnana and its most beautiful villages.
Borgo a Mozzano
After a half-hour drive, you arrive at Borgo a Mozzano, a village whose foundation likely dates back to the year 1000. The village is situated along the renowned Via Francigena, which runs from Pontremoli to Lucca. Nearby, it also preserves a stretch of the Gothic Line, the impressive defensive line of the Germans during World War II. This is why the village houses the Museum of Memory. It collects war relics and documents related to the construction of the line and numerous archaeological remains from all over Garfagnana.
The most famous attraction of Borgo a Mozzano is the Devil’s Bridge, or Maddalena’s Bridge. It is a truly scenic work of engineering from the Middle Ages. The 11th century attests to the presence of a bridge over the Serchio. However, the current structure is the result of a refurbishment that took place in the 1300s. Many legends have arisen due to the unusual aspect of this bridge. One of them says that it was the devil himself who built the bridge in a single night.
Gallicano
After visiting Borgo a Mozzano, we proceed to explore the Garfagnana valley by following the SP 20 road. Gallicano is a small but well-preserved medieval stone village. Walking through the streets of its historic center will be a real discovery, and it will allow you to spend time in absolute relaxation.
The Turrite sits to the right of the historic center. It develops around the 15th-century church of S. Jacopo, which is in a dominant position above the village, with mountains as a backdrop. The Municipal Palace with its loggia is also worth seeing. The town is famous for the Palio of San Jacopo. Every year on July 25th, the town celebrates the Palio of San Jacopo, a competition between the carts of its divided districts.
Barga
Climbing up a side hill of the Garfagnana valley, we meet Barga. The village is famous for being the adopted town of a famous Italian poet, Giovanni Pascoli (1855–1922). It is also the most populous center of the mid-Serchio Valley. The town of Barga is part of two important Italian associations that certify the beauty of its landscape and cultural heritage: the “Borghi più Belli d’Italia” and the “Orange Flags” of the Touring Club Italia. Furthermore, Barga is part of the “Cittaslow” circuit, another recognition for its tourist offer and quality of life.
Among the most significant attractions, we remember the Cathedral of San Cristoforo, whose original nucleus dates back to the year 1000. The “arringo,” a vast meadow situated between the Cathedral and the Podestà’s palace, offers a magnificent view of the Pizzorne mountains, the Apuan Alps, and the Apennines. Visit Casa Pascoli, the museum that maintains the poet’s original furnishings, books, and manuscripts.
Castelnuovo di Garfagnana
We descend the valley to reach the capital of Garfagnana. Castelnuovo di Garfagnana is a splendid village of over 5000 inhabitants. The peoples of the Etruscans and Romans first inhabited this territory, although the first certain mention of the village dates back to 740. Today, the historic center of Castelnuovo di Garfagnana perfectly retains its medieval appearance.
Here we find the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, dating back to the 16th century and with baroque interiors. The village’s symbol is the Ariostesca Fortress. It is located in the central Piazza Umberto I and owes its name to the fact that it hosted the famous Italian poet Ludovico Ariosto in the 16th century.
Castiglione di Garfagnana
From Castelnuovo, we reach the village of Castiglione di Garfagnana. Nestled amidst chestnut and beech woods, this village boasts an impressive network of hiking trails. Roman times saw the founding of a fortified castle, which gave shape to the historic center of Castiglione.
Today, the village still boasts walls with a turret and the medieval castle. The latter is a fortress and stands on a rocky spur in a dominant position. Its current structure dates back to the end of the 1300s. Also worth seeing is the nearby church of San Michele, dating back to the 12th century. Furthermore, you can admire the medieval bridge over the Esarulo stream in the Molino locality, just a short distance away.
San Romano in Garfagnana
San Romano in Garfagnana is located within the Appennino Tosco-Emiliano National Park. The town has a very ancient history, as its territory features ruins of Ligurian and Roman settlements. In the village, there is the imposing Verrucole Fortress, which dates back to the Middle Ages. Since the Iron Age, people have frequented this rugged mountain.
Owned by the Gherardinghi family since 991, the fortress passed to the Malaspina marquises in 1328 and finally to the Este family of Ferrara in the mid-15th century. The current appearance of the building was the work of these lords, who gave it a Renaissance style.
Careggine
The first historical records of the town of Careggine date back to 720, thanks to the chapel of San Pietro, one of the oldest churches in Garfagnana. The municipal territory includes several historical and naturalistic sites. For example, Isola Santa is a true oasis of peace and beauty. The settlement grew out of a hospice that welcomed pilgrims, travelers, and the sick in the early Middle Ages. Today, the village is a widespread hotel that overlooks a little lake with emerald waters.
In 1948, the construction of a hydroelectric dam created the nearby Lake Vagli. The filling of the lake submerged the town of Fabbriche di Careggine, an ancient village of blacksmiths from Brescia. The inhabitants were forced to abandon the town that lies on the bottom of Lake Vagli and can be visited every time it is emptied.
Camporgiano
A large fortress dominates the village of Camporgiano. It dates back to the time of the dominance of the noble Este family. It is an austere and irregular building with a wall and two watchtowers. Inside, it is possible to visit the civic collection of Renaissance ceramics.
Attractions in Garfagnana gallery
Garfagnana Attractions video
Garfagnana towns map
Borgo a Mozzano – Garfagnana weather
Meteo Borgo a Mozzano
Tourist information offices Garfagnana
The Pro Loco Castelnuovo di Garfagnana is located at Piazza delle Erbe, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana. Open in the summer:
Weekdays: 9.30 a.m.-1 p.m and 3.30 p.m.-7 p.m.
Holidays: 10 a.m.-1 p.m and 3.30 p.m.-6.30 p.m.
Open in winter:
Weekdays: 9.30 a.m.-1 p.m and 3.30 p.m.-6.30 p.m.
Holidays: 10a.m.-12.30 p.m.
Phone: 0583 641007; Email: info@castelnuovogarfagnana.org
