Sovana is a charming small stone village located in southern Tuscany. A visit here reveals a rich heritage from the Etruscan, medieval, and Renaissance periods. Here’s what to see in Sovana, a village perfect for visiting all year round.
Where is Sovana?
Sovana is a hamlet in the municipality of Sorano, in the province of Grosseto, Tuscany. Situated on the left bank of the Fiora River, it occupies a valley between the hills of the tufa area. It occupies the crest of a gentle hill, stretching lengthwise above the countryside of Grosseto
The History of Sovana
At the dawn of its history, Sovana was an important Etruscan center, as evidenced by the ancient tombs dating back to the 7th century BC. By 350 BC, Sovana was already a flourishing settlement. With the Roman conquest of the territory, Sovana maintained its significance, as demonstrated by the large temple tombs from the mid-3rd century BC.
In the 5th century, the Aldobrandeschi family built a castle around the year 1000, which led to the development of Sovana’s historic center during the Middle Ages. By the end of the 13th century, Sovana became a fief of the important Roman family of the Orsini, along with the village of Pitigliano. Siena conquered it during the 15th century. After the fall of the Republic of Siena in the mid-16th century, the village became the property of the Florentine Medici family. They tried to revive Sovana, which had become depopulated due to plague epidemics, by bringing in settlers from Greece.
The Modern Era
These efforts, however, were unsuccessful. In fact, in the 1702 census, Sovana had only twenty-four inhabitants. Despite the Lorraine family’s vain attempts to improve the situation during their rule, the village remained semi-abandoned. It was not until the 20th century that Sovana experienced new development.
Today, thanks to its archaeological sites and the architectural beauties of the historic center, the village has become a tourist destination. Sovana is part of the club “The Most Beautiful Villages of Italy,” an association that promotes small Italian towns for their significant historical and artistic interest.
What to See in Sovana
For centuries, an important Etruscan necropolis has been located near a medieval historic center situated high in the heart of the tufa area. The historic center also displays Renaissance-era architecture, particularly the walls. Here’s what to see in Sovana now.
Cathedral of San Pietro
The Cathedral of San Pietro dates back to the 10th century, when Pope Gregory VII (a native of the village) wanted to build it on the remains of a 6th-century worship building. However, the numerous restorations have not altered its original Romanesque appearance.
The large tufa crypt preserves the remains of San Mamiliano, the patron saint of Sovana. The interiors feature decorations with biblical scenes on the capitals and sacred artworks from the 15th and 17th centuries. The travertine baptismal font dates from 1494.
Other Churches
The Church of Santa Maria Maggiore dates back to the 12th century. Today it presents a Romanesque style with Gothic elements. The interiors retain two frescoes from the early 16th century, 16th-century works, and a stone ciborium with typical early medieval decorations, representing one of the rare examples of pre-Romanesque art in the entire region of Tuscany.
The Church of San Mamiliano is probably the oldest church in Sovana. The building was perhaps the first episcopal seat of the diocese in the 5th century. From 1460 to 1776, it housed the remains of San Mamiliano. After the abandonment that caused its ruin, a major restoration, carried out in the 2000s, allowed the recovery of the historic building. Today, it houses the San Mamiliano Museum.
Piazza del Pretorio
The central Piazza del Pretorio, home to the village’s most stunning historic buildings, is a must-see in Sovana. Among these, the Palazzo dell’Archivio is the symbol of Sovana. Its construction dates back to the 12th century, when it became the town hall. In fact, the building is also known as the Municipal Palace. The clock on the façade dates from the end of the 16th century. The bell gable is from the 17th century.
In the 17th century, the palace became the seat of Sovana’s archives. The building features walls completely covered in tufa. The interior preserves the frieze from the Ildebranda Etruscan tomb, located in the nearby necropolis.
Other historic buildings
Palazzo Pretorio appears on one side of Piazza del Pretorio. Its construction dates back to the end of the 12th century, and, after serving as a prison and warehouse, today it hosts an exhibition of the San Mamiliano Museum. The tufa facade displays the nine coats of arms of the captains of the people who served there. Next to it, we find the medieval Loggia del Capitano. Under its arches, the loggia preserves the large Medici coat of arms, added in 1570 by Cosimo I de’ Medici.
Palazzo Bourbon del Monte, also in Piazza del Pretorio, dates back to 1558, when Cosimo I de’ Medici wanted to build it. Later, the building became the residence of the Bourbon del Monte lords. A recent restoration has brought to light its Renaissance architecture, and today it hosts cultural events. The Episcopal Palace is located near the Cathedral of Sovana and dates back to the end of the 14th century. It hosted the bishops of Sovana. Among the historic buildings of the village, the birthplace of Pope Gregory VII is also visible, located along the picturesque Via del Duomo.
The archaeological area of Sovana
One of the main attractions in Sovana is the archaeological site containing tombs from the Etruscan period. The accessible area is located west of the village, although relics from this period are found throughout the plain below Sovana. The complex is part of the Città del Tufo Archaeological Park. In the necropolis, the monumental Ildebranda tomb, the Sirena tomb, the Typhoon tomb, and the Pola cave stand out.
The Ildebranda tomb, completely carved in tufa and dating back to the 3rd–2nd century BC, resembles a monumental temple with a portico. Walking down a long, descending corridor leads to the burial chamber. The Sirena tomb is from the same period and is also known as the “Fountain tomb.” The façade features a false door, entirely carved in tufa. The scientific world first learned about the Etruscan necropolis of Sovana through the discovery of the Sirena tomb.
Rocca Aldobrandesca
The ruins of Rocca Aldobrandesca are located at the eastern end of the village. An arch allows access to the area, which also includes the original Etruscan walls. The Rocca dates back to the year 1000. In fact, the Aldobrandeschi family wanted to build it as the seat of their political power, which lasted until the end of the 13th century.
Later, the fortress fell into ruin. Acquired by the Republic of Siena, the fortress underwent restoration, and then, in the second half of the 16th century, Cosimo I de’ Medici completed the renovation work. However, today only a tower and a section of walls remain. Numerous Etruscan tombs carved in tufa surround the ruins of the ancient building.
Museums of Sovana
San Mamiliano Museum
The San Mamiliano Museum is located in the church of the same name. The restoration of the building uncovered the remains of a Renaissance cemetery, the ruins of Roman baths, and a terracotta container holding the so-called “Sovana treasure.” The latter contained 498 gold coins from the 5th century AD. The museum displays 129 of them.
The collection of the San Mamiliano Museum includes artifacts from the archaeological area of Sovana, from the 2nd and 1st centuries BC, seven vases from the 1st century BC, and fragments of terracotta from the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC. Subsequently, the museum showcases enigmatic clay statuettes and votive offerings dating back to the 7th and 6th centuries BC. The museum also includes the exhibition at the Palazzo Pretorio headquarters, with pieces from the Ildebranda tomb and the archaeological site of Sovana.
What to see in Sovana: the surroundings
The Città del Tufo Archaeological Park is a complex of areas of the municipality of Sorano. The park encompasses the rock settlement of San Rocco, the tufa-carved San Rocco cave road, which may be of Etruscan origin, and a variety of Etruscan tombs. The medieval rock settlement of Vitozza is part of the park but is located near the hamlet of San Quirico.
The Città del Tufo also includes the spectacular Vie Cave. These are a fascinating ensemble of Etruscan-era roads that connected the various settlements and necropolises between Sovana, Sorano, and Pitigliano. Steep cuts between the tufa rock walls, often over 20 meters high, created these roads. Therefore, these roads can be compared to artificial canyons, serving both defensive and defensive purposes against invaders. The main Vie Caves of Sovana are the Cavone, the Via Cava of San Sebastiano, and the Via Cava of Poggio Prisca.
Curiosities and anecdotes about Sovana
- Connection with a Pope. Pope Gregory VII was born in Sovana in 1020, under the name Hildebrand of Soana. He was probably an illegitimate son of the Aldobrandeschis. Hildebrand became pope in 1073 and was one of the most influential pontiffs of the 11th century. He is known for his reform of the church and his conflict with Emperor Henry IV during the investiture struggle.
- The Via Clodia. In the past, the Via Clodia crossed the settlement of Sovana. It was a Roman road that connected the city of Rome with northern Tuscany. This road was a vital artery for trade and military communication during the Roman period.
- The Village in Literature. Sovana and its history have inspired numerous writers and poets. For example, the village appears in the works of the Italian writer Carlo Cassola (1917–1987), who described its beauty and atmosphere.
Typical Cuisine of Sovana
Sovana is not only a village of historical and cultural beauties. In fact, it is also a place where the typical cuisine reflects the richness and authenticity of the local gastronomic traditions. The cuisine of Sovana is of peasant origin and draws on the culinary traditions of Tuscan Mamemma. Dining in Sovana’s restaurants will allow you to discover a variety of dishes that celebrate fresh and seasonal ingredients generously provided by the surrounding nature.
What to see in Sovana Gallery
Video Sovana
Sovana map
Sorano – Sovana weather
Meteo Sorano
Sovana Tourist Information Office
The Sovana Tourist Information Office is located in Via del Pretorio 9. Contacts: (+39) 338 8618856, welcome@tesoridietruria.it
