Venice, also known as the “Serenissima,” is one of the most fascinating and unique cities in the world. Founded in the 5th century, the city sprawls across 118 small islands in the Venetian lagoon, situated in the northeast of Italy. Among the city’s many attractions, this Venice tour explores the Jewish Ghetto, the neighborhood where Jews were forced to reside since 1516. Located in the Cannaregio district, it is still the heart of the Venetian Jewish community today.
Venice Tour
The history of Venice began when its inhabitants built the city on stilts to protect it from flooding. Today, its architecture is a precious mix of Byzantine, Gothic, and Renaissance art. Venice is famous for its picturesque canals, especially the Grand Canal, which meanders through the city, flanked by historic buildings that tell stories of opulence and decay.
The Jewish Ghetto and Cannaregio
One of the most emblematic symbols of Venice is the Rialto Bridge, which spans the Grand Canal and is a magnificent example of Renaissance architecture. Equally famous is St. Mark’s Square, the vibrant heart of the city. Here stands the majestic Basilica, adorned with golden mosaics that reflect the wealth and power of the Republic of Venice. Next to the basilica, St. Mark’s Campanile offers a panoramic view of the city and the lagoon.
But beyond these world-famous attractions, Venice has other, lesser-known but equally fascinating sites. The Jewish ghetto, a historically significant location for the Jewish community in the city, presents genuinely unique and captivating ambiances and architectural designs. Our Venice tour will focus on this particular neighborhood of Venice and on Cannaregio.
History of the Jewish Ghetto of Venice
The Cannaregio district and the Jewish Ghetto of Venice share a deep connection in history. This area includes the Rio della Misericordia, the Rio di San Girolamo, the Rio del Ghetto, the Rio del Battello, and the Rio Cà del Moro. In the past, the “Insula del Ghetto” was a system of islands, foundations, and banks for the forced residence of the Jews.
The New Ghetto
In 1516, the government of the Serenissima imposed the obligation on Jews to move their homes and shops to the New Ghetto. The island formed from the residues of ongoing construction work in the surrounding areas. Additionally, the Arsenal’s cannon foundries deposited their metal slag on the island.
This process of formation dates back to the 15th century. At that time, about a hundred people lived on the island of the Old Ghetto. From the Old Ghetto, with a bridge made of two simple beams, the new ghetto was formed to bring the waste. However, a master of the furnaces soon built a wooden house there, and some porters started bringing wool to lay out to dry.
The Insula del Ghetto
The Insula of the New Ghetto occupied the marshy area between the island of San Girolamo and the Rio di San Leonardo. A wooden bridge connected the island to the Fondamenta degli Ormesini when the government ordered the Jews to relocate there in 1516.
The compact shape of the Insula del Ghetto made the site easily controllable. However, it proved to be extremely tiny, unable to accommodate the entire Jewish population present in Venice at that time. The island was characterized from the beginning by strong demographic pressure and difficult living conditions. Furthermore, the city administration prohibited Jews from purchasing homes and restricted them to renting them.
Living conditions in the Ghetto
The Christian proprietors of the ghetto houses expanded them, adding floors upon floors, to accommodate an ever-increasing number of Jews for profit. The situation soon became unsustainable. However, the government could not renounce to the economic role of the Jews, which included providing pawn loans and importing specific items. Consequently, the government merged the Old Ghetto with the New Ghetto in 1541. But under certain conditions.
The prohibition for Jews to buy the dwelling they occupied remained valid, and the prohibition to reside there permanently was introduced. The most surprising condition was the restriction on keeping the windows facing the homes of Christians open. These factors led to the unfavorable reception of the proposal to include Jews in the Old Ghetto, a situation that persisted until 1550.
The Very New Ghetto
Over time, the economic importance of the Jews grew ever more. Therefore, in 1633, it was decreed to add the Very New Ghetto to the two previous ones. This consisted of 20 buildings located along the Rio di San Girolamo.
What to see in the Venice Ghetto
Today, the Jewish Ghetto of Venice remains almost intact in its architectural layout. There are still only two bridges that provide access to the island. In the past, at night, they were barred with gates to prevent the Jews from leaving. Two synagogues are still open and active in alternating periods of the year. Almost all the buildings in the ghetto serve institutional functions.
For instance, founded in 1528, the Scuola Grande Tedesca stands as the oldest Jewish place of worship. The building has undergone numerous renovations, so much so that it is now indistinguishable from the other common buildings.
Campo del Ghetto Novo
Campo del Ghetto Novo is the main square of the Jewish Ghetto of Venice. The multi-story dwellings, added to accommodate the surplus Jews, make Campo del Ghetto Novo a highly suggestive and characteristic place. The Jewish Museum is a scattered museum located near the Campo del Ghetto Novo, at the corner between the two oldest synagogues in Venice.
The Venice tour concludes in the Old Ghetto, where we encounter the picturesque Corte Scala Matta, once home to a maze of wooden stairs. They belonged to the houses that faced it, probably to recover more space inside. The actual Scala Matta was made of wood; the ramps didn’t have steps, but only a strip to rest the feet and not slip. They had no handrail.
Venice tour: the Cannaregio itinerary
Our Venice tour continues at Cannaregio, Venice’s second-largest district. It covers practically the entire territory north of the Grand Canal. The Cannaregio canal, which connects the Grand Canal with the lagoon, runs through the area. The Guglie bridge and the Tre Archi bridge both cross it.
Attractions in Cannaregio
In addition to the Jewish Ghetto, in Cannaregio, you can admire the palaces of Strada Nova, the main pedestrian street of the district. Between the Ghetto, the church of Sant’Alvise, and the church of Madonna dell’Orto appear the long and characteristic “foundations,” today rich in restaurants and clubs.
Among the churches, in addition to those already mentioned, we recall the church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli, located at the extreme south of the district. It is the first example of a Renaissance church in Venice. The Santi Apostoli church, the Jesuit church in Santa Maria Assunta, the school complex, and the church of the Abbey of Misericordia remain.
Church of Santa Maria di Nazareth
The church of Santa Maria di Nazareth, or the church of the Scalzi, is the main place of worship in Cannaregio and dates back to the early 18th century. The Discalced Carmelites founded it after their settlement in Venice. The facade displays a marvelous late Venetian Baroque style. The interior is spectacular for its abundant and colorful marble decorations and frescoes.
Among them, historically, was Giambattista Tiepolo’s “Transportation of the Holy House of Loreto” from 1743. However, Austrian bombs destroyed the work in October 1915. The surviving fragments of the fresco are at the Gallerie dell’Accademia.
The palaces of Cannaregio
The Venice tour continues among the historic palaces of Cannaregio. Moro Palace, on the Fondamenta Carlo Coletti, dates back to 1544. The Venetian nobleman Lorenzo Moro entrusted the design of the elegant building to the famous architect Jacopo Sansovino. Almost completely surrounded by water, it had four corner towers connected by long wings, a magnificent garden, and a courtyard. Labia Palace is a 17th-century building. In its ballroom, there is a cycle of frescoes by Gianbattista Tiepolo on the stories of Anthony and Cleopatra.
East of the Cannaregio district, we find the house where the famous painter Tintoretto lived all his life. It is a 15th-century building, with its characteristic red facade adorned by splendid triforia.
Strada Nova
Our Venice tour can include a visit to Strada Nova, the most important thoroughfare in Cannaregio. It connects Santa Lucia Station with Rialto, ending in the Campo dei Santi Apostoli. Here is the route with the main attractions.
List of Spain
The first stretch of Strada Nova is known as Lista di Spagna (List of Spain). It was so named because Frigerio Palace housed the Spanish Ambassador during the Republic. The term “list” originates from the fact that the city’s government marked the space of immunity of the embassies’ palaces with Istrian stone, known as “listare” in Italian.
In the List of Spain, in addition to hotels and restaurants, we find the Calbo Crotta Palace, which presents numerous architectural styles, such as Gothic and Baroque. Then there is the 15th-century Palazzetto Lezze, which showcases the Venetian Gothic style. Campo San Geremia, with the homonymous church, conserves the remains of Saint Lucy of Syracuse. Finally, Labia Palace features inside frescoes by Giovan Battista Tiepolo.
From San Geremia to Rio di Noale
The deconsecrated church of San Leonardo and the 15th-century Della Torre Palace, one of the most beautiful and prestigious buildings, follow the Ponte delle Guglie. The open space of Campiello dell’Anconetta leads to the Rio Terà della Maddalena. This was likely the first canal filling in Venice to be connected by a road. The filling occurred at the end of the 14th century. Along the way, one encounters the back of Vendramin Calergi Palace, which was the residence of Richard Wagner at the end of his life.
Then there is the gothic Contin Palace from the 15th century and the Donà dalle Rose Palace from the 17th century. Finally, one reaches Campo della Maddalena with its church of circular plan. The campo of Santa Fosca, home to the monument to Paolo Sarpi and the corresponding church, follows. Next to it stands the 15th-century Correr Palace, a Gothic-style building with echoes of the 18th century. Here we meet the oldest pharmacy in Venice. Farmacia Ponci is still in operation, but its interiors date back to the 17th century.
From Rio di Noale to Santi Apostoli
The final stretch of Strada Nova begins after the church of San Felice, one of the oldest in Venice, with its original core dating back to the 10th century. The famous Ca’ d’Oro and the church of Santa Sofia, nestled among the houses, can be seen from this location.
At this point, Campo Santa Sofia opens up with Sagredo Palace and Michiel dalle Colonne Palace. The main facade of both faces the Grand Canal. Strada Nova ends in Campo Santi Apostoli, characterized by the presence of the homonymous place of worship.
In this travel guide, you will find the most beautiful museums in Venice to visit.
To discover another unusual place in Venice, you can read this travel guide on the island of Poveglia.
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Tourist Information and Reception Venice
The offices for information, ticketing (public transport, museums, churches, theaters, shows, and concerts), tours, maps, and guides, and merchandising can be found at:
- Venice, Piazza San Marco 71/f
- The shop located near the Venezia Unica Agency in Venice, Piazzale Roma, can be reached by phone at +39 041 2722283.
- Venice, Santa Lucia FS Station, Cannaregio 54 C-D opposite Actv A-B landing stage
- Marco Polo International Airport (arrivals area)
- Mestre, via Lazzari 32 (near Piazzale Cialdini)
- Dolo, Via Matteotti (15H)
For any tourist requests on places and events in the city, interested parties can write an email to info@veneziaunica.it or contact the call center at 041.041.