The Underground Basilica of Porta Maggiore in Rome is one of the most enigmatic and lesser-known archaeological sites in the Italian capital. Hidden beneath the eponymous gate, this underground structure offers a fascinating journey through the religion, architecture, and funeral practices of ancient Rome. The Porta Maggiore Basilica is located 30 feet deep in the Prenestino-Labicano district in Rome. It represents the oldest pagan basilica in the West.
The History of the Porta Maggiore Basilica
The Porta Maggiore basilica is a subterranean Neopythagorean place of worship in Rome, located near the Porta Maggiore. It stands where the most important aqueducts of Imperial Rome met. Built between 14 and 54 AD, it dates back to the Tiberian or Claudian era.
Excavating the tuff beneath the ancient Via Prenestina yielded the basilica. The discovery of this place of worship dates back to April 1917. After the vault of the ancient religious building collapsed, several structures emerged during the construction of the Rome-Pescara railway and the parallel road.
The Basilica Today
Vibrations from passing trains and water infiltrations must not damage the ancient structure. In 1951, reinforced concrete protection was created to completely isolate the basilica’s environments.
The basilica has maintained its original construction due to its centuries-old underground isolation and lack of significant modifications. It still presents the rich mosaic, painting, and stucco decoration, perfectly preserved.
How It Was Built
The system for constructing it is complex. It was built directly underground in three different phases. First, the excavation was carried out. Then, filling with lime and pozzolana, flint blocks, walls, and pillars. The removal of the earth represents the third and final phase of the works.
At the time of its construction, the Porta Maggiore Basilica was located in a suburban area called Horti Tauriani. The ancient Statilia family possessed this area, as evidenced by the inscriptions found at the National Roman Museum Baths of Diocletian. After several years of closure for restoration works, the underground basilica of Porta Maggiore reopened to the public in 2022. You can only visit it occasionally with a guide for exceptional openings.
Porta Maggiore Basilica: Description
The architecture of the Porta Maggiore Basilica combines unique elements that reflect various cultural and religious influences of the time. The main structure features a large central nave flanked by columns. Niches and rooms, presumably intended for funeral ceremonies or meetings of mystery cults, adorn the sides. The internal decorations highlight the influence of Greek, Roman, and Eastern art and mythology.
The Porta Maggiore basilica in Rome has a three-nave plan with a central apse. The underground structure measures about 40 feet in length, 30 feet in width, and 23 feet in height. A corridor, a vestibule, and the main basilica hall form the complex. Originally, the corridor corresponded to access to the basilica via the ancient Via Prenestina.
In fact, from the street level, a vaulted tunnel descended steeply, running along the north side of the cult building. Then it turned at a right angle to join with the vestibule.
The environments
Only the final section of the ancient corridor remains today, connecting to the vestibule. The latter is a small, square-shaped room. It measures, in fact, only 12 x 12 feet. It has a pavilion vault with a skylight that exactly replicates the shape of the basilica hall. The vault decorates the vestibule with polychrome-figured paintings and stucco walls that replicate landscapes. Human figures also appear in the lower part of the vestibule.
The basilica hall is the main room and measures approximately 40 x 30 feet for a total area of 1162 square feet. Six pillars delimit the rectangular plan, dividing the three naves. The ceiling has barrel vaults. The central nave is wider and has a semicircular apse at the end of the room itself. The floors feature black and white mosaics. The walls and vaults have white stucco decorations. Instead, the base features the same dark red paint as the vestibule.
What to See in the Porta Maggiore Basilica, Rome
The decorations of the ceilings and walls of the Underground Basilica of Porta Maggiore are particularly valuable. The stucco depicts mythological scenes related to the theme of the soul’s fate and the secrets of the initiations into the Mysteries (the Eleusinian Mysteries were annual initiations for the Demeter and Persephone cult at the Panhellenic Sanctuary of Eleusis in ancient Greece).
The decorations
A winged genius abducts Ganymede, as depicted on the walls. The next scene depicts Medea offering a magical potion to the dragon guarding the Golden Fleece, allowing Jason to take possession of it. Other decorations include the abduction of one of Leucippus’s daughters, Orpheus and Eurydice, and scenes of mystical rituals.
Images of female offering figures, winged victories, medusa heads, children playing, and souls being led to the Underworld adorn the walls. Next, we witness a marriage ceremony, depictions of sacred items, creatures, and a pygmy making his way back to his dwelling after a hunting expedition. Finally, the apse basin represents Sappho throwing herself into the sea from the cliff of Lefkada.
The reputation as a mystical-esoteric place
The particular decorations suggest that a mystical-esoteric sect operated within the Porta Maggiore basilica. However, we are still far from discovering its precise original function.
Hypotheses consider this cult building to be a tomb or a funerary basilica. Some scholars believe it was a nymphaeum or, more likely, a Neopythagorean temple. All these functions could have coexisted over time.
The various interpretations
According to the Belgian professor Hans van Kasteel, the basilica would be a commentary on the verses of Virgil’s Aeneid. According to the French historian Jerome Carcopino, the basilica complex belonged to the consul Tito Statilio Tauro. Agrippina, Nero’s mother, accused this figure of practicing magic. To avoid trial, Tito Statilio Tauro killed himself in 53 AD.
According to this interpretation, Tito Statilio Tauro would have been a member of a mystery sect. This interpretation provided the pretext to accuse him of witchcraft. For Carcopino, the Underground Basilica of Porta Maggiore would have been the place to practice a Neopythagorean cult. The location of the site, the planimetric structure, and the decorations led him to formulate this hypothesis.
Also, for the French historian Gilles Sauron, the basilica belonged to the Statilio family. The historian suggests that the building was the burial place of another Tito Statilio Tauro. This individual was a collaborator of Augustus, who lived 30 years earlier. According to other scholars, the basilica was the place where Orphic cults took place.
Today’s interpretations
Recent restorations and the studies that accompanied them have opened new perspectives. The basilica’s decorative heritage likely underwent completion at two distinct periods. The first refers to the Augustan age, the second to the Neronian age. This could refer to a connection with the two Tito Statilio Tauro mentioned. This idea would also imply the hypothesis of a change in the use of the underground basilica of Porta Maggiore, which occurred in the first half of the 1st century AD.
The dual purposes of serving as a funerary place and a place of mystical worship coexisted without competing with each other. Today, the underground basilica of Porta Maggiore is a mysterious place that fuels legends. These legends claim that the underground basilica of Porta Maggiore is a haven for spirits and ghosts, as well as a site for the celebration of magical rites. The reputation endures over time.
Porta Maggiore Basilica, Rome: visitor information
It is possible to visit the Porta Maggiore basilica only on special occasions. It is still undergoing restoration and consolidation works. For more information, visit the Coop Culture website.
Curiosities and anecdotes
- Hidden Entrance. Originally, access to the basilica was possible only through a kind of vertical well, suggesting an intent of secrecy or sacredness.
- Deciphering the Frescoes. The mural frescoes include scenes that some interpret as representations of mystery rites, with figures participating in enigmatic ceremonies.
- Sacred Water. The presence of an internal aqueduct suggests that water played an important ritual role. Perhaps it was useful for purification or as a central element in the practiced rites.
- Multicultural Influences. The artistic motifs and construction techniques reflect an eclectic mix of influences, from Egypt to Greece. This testifies to Rome’s vast network of cultural contacts.
- Rediscovery and conservation. After its discovery, the basilica was long inaccessible to the public for conservation reasons.
How can I reach the Porta Maggiore Basilica in Rome?
The underground basilica is located at Via Prenestina, 17. Nearby are Porta Maggiore and the tunnel leading to Scalo San Lorenzo. An information point bearing the sign “Basilica di Porta Maggiore” is located nearby.
Getting to the Underground Basilica of Porta Maggiore is quite convenient because it is accessible from the Porta Maggiore station. Tram lines 3, 5, 8, 14, and 19 also provide access to the basilica. You can also reach the basilica by bus lines 50 and 105, and the Metro Line A Manzoni stop.
Where to eat nearby
Osteria La Sol Fa (via G. Sommeiller, 19). The restaurant serves traditional Roman pasta and meat dishes in a cozy dining room with wood paneling or on street-side tables. The menu offers no more than 4 to 5 choices, ensuring the freshest products are always available. Among the dishes, the “Gricia” and “Pajata” are excellent. Fair price.
Ristorante La Pecora Pazza (Via Statilia, 35). In an intimate and welcoming place, you can taste typical dishes of Italian cuisine and typical dishes of the Calabria region. On the menu, you can choose between first courses, such as ravioli, carbonara, and pasta alla matriciana. The second course includes various types of meat, such as beef steak, chicken, and lamb.
Where to sleep nearby
Hotel Donatello (Via di Porta Maggiore, 83). The Hotel Donatello, a three-star boutique hotel, is situated in the Porta Maggiore area, merely a short stroll away from San Lorenzo, a well-known and vibrant neighborhood. The hotel is perfectly situated for exploring Rome, with quick connections to San Giovanni in Laterano, the Colosseum, the station, and the metro.
B&B La Finestra di Fronte (Piazza di S. Croce in Gerusalemme, 1). The location of the Bed and Breakfast ”La Finestra di Fronte” is the historic Santa Croce Square. It offers a view of the Basilica of the famous Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano. In addition, the hotel offers double, triple, or quadruple rooms. The rooms have a private bathroom, are spacious, and have soundproof windows. They have free Wi-Fi, television and air conditioning on request.
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The tourist offices of Rome are open 365 days a year in the historic center, in the central station Roma Termini, and in the airports Leonardo da Vinci in Fiumicino and G.B. Pastine in Ciampino. The staff is available to provide all useful information about tourist-cultural interest, itineraries, events, means of transport, the sale of ATAC tickets, and the sale and collection of Roma Passes.
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International Arrivals Terminal T3
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